Stretching between Turin and the French border, the Susa Valley (Italian: Valle di Susa) gets its name from the little city of Susa (ca. 6.400 inhabitants). The Dora Riparia flows through it towards Turin, where it merges with the Po River.
Running through the valley, the Via Francigena was a very important pilgrimage route for Catholics, on their way to Rome or the Holy Land. For this reason you can still find abbeys where pilgrims used to rest before getting back on the road.
Yet, the route was also used by merchants, soldiers and artists coming from Northern Europe, which contributed to the cultural liveliness of this area.
For Italy lovers looking for new destinations off-the-beaten-track the Susa Valley has a lot to offer, starting with magnificent mountain landscapes in every season of the year.
SACRA DI SAN MICHELE
This former benedictine abbey, on the top of the Monte Pirchiriano (939m/3 081ft a.s.l.), is definitely, the most iconic monument of the Susa Valley. Apart from the breathtaking views (weather permitting), the building itself is extremely fascinating. The natural rocks and building materials blend in a marvelous, harmonious way. In the church one can see the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture.
AVIGLIANA
This charming little town boasts a well-kept Middle Ages core, and is located near two small moraine-dammed lakes divided by a small strip of land. Walking along the old arcades and the pebbled streets makes one feel back in ancient times.
SUSA
The stunning bell tower of the medieval St. Giusto Cathedral is the landmark of the town.
The foundation of Susa though goes back for more than two millennia. The grand Arch of Octavianus Augustus, built in 8 BC, records the alliance between Cottius (a Celtic-Ligurian ruler of the area) and the Roman Emperor. Instead of fighting against the Romans, interested in having access to the Montgenèvre pass, the local inhabitants found an agreement … what a lesson !
A small Roman arena with excellent acoustics can also be visited.
Sant’Antonio di Ranverso
This religious complex was run by the monastic order of the Antonin, who specialized in the treatment of pilgrims affected by skin diseases. In the past, many afflictions, including ergotism and shingles, were referred to as Saint Anthony’s fire.
The gracious brick facade of the ancient hospital, decorated with terracotta moulded tiles, can still be admired. In the church and the sacristy one can discover gorgeous frescos dating back to the 15th C.
NOVALESA
Close to the French border, near the Mont Cenis pass, the Novalesa Abbey is the only one in the valley which is still inhabited. The present monks are dedicated to the restoration of ancient books, recalling the activity of their predecessors, who used to copy texts and illuminate manuscripts. In some chapels stunning frescoes from the 11th C. can still be appreciated.
If you aim to plan a half day or full day excursion in the Susa Valley, ask us for a tailor-made proposal!
Photos: Julie Barrett